1 February 1994 Hog Island, Grenada
I went into St Georges on the bus from Lower Woburn. They packed 20 people into a Toyota Hiace. I forgot my shoes and I had to buy some cheap flip flops in town. I must be starting to go ‘tropo’. I did a lot of wandering around looking at shops and hardware stores. We need to renew our First Aid, so I went to the hospital and the Red Cross, but couldn’t find anyone who ran first aid courses.
I rang a diving centre and then gave up when I found out that they charge $48US per dive! I rang John Day and apologised about the computer! I also talked to Carol who has got loads of mail, but she doesn’t know if any of it is important - I said I’d ring her in a few days.
2 February 1994 Hog Island
Another hard day at school. I did some good windsurfing. We went to the beach on the south side of the island and did some snorkelling which is OK on the outer reefs. There was a Mad Hatters Tea Party on the beach in the afternoon – quite a lot of people brought cakes and scones and fattening things. Glenys continues to wage war against the cockroaches with little apparent success.
3 February 1994 Hog Island
I went over to Secret Harbour to find out about the Mercury outboard – guess what! Yes, they’re working on it “could I ring back after lunch?” Glenys and the boys went on a one hour trek with Marilyn from “Ootek” and Joy from “Tapawingo” to a pig farm.
I did some windsurfing (again) and clarinet lessons and then went back to Secret Harbour. They were still working on the Mercury, but said that they would come and pick up the Mariner. I said I would wait. Two hours later they brought it back – good job that I had the foresight to take a good book. Glenys told me off for going to chat to “Meander” without her!
4 February 1994 Hog Island
We all went for a bus ride to Grenville. The boys were shocked into silence by the way we were all jammed into the mini bus on the way to St. Georges! The bus ride from St Georges to Grenville is a real white knuckle ride with wonderful scenery. At Grenville we had a quick stare at the harbour, a quick walk around town and a slower lunch.
We had the inevitable, but tasty, roti and chatted to a bloke who is building a house on ½ acre of land next to the beach. He was brought up in Grenada, but spent 25 years with London Transport. He’s selling his house in London (£130K) and retiring on a £100/week pension + UK pension. He’s probably been working as a bus conductor with people thinking that he’s stupid – but who’s stupid now! On the way back we stopped off at Grand Etang which is a national park centre around a lake in an old volcanic core – now covered with rain forest.
We arrived back in Hog Island to find “Great Spirit” (USA), Jimmy and Sherri, anchored there. We’d met them briefly in Madeira and Las Palmas and heard them on the net across the Atlantic, but never really talked to them. We had a nice talk and rum punch before the kids forced us to go!
5 February 1994 Hog Island
We went on a bus trip to Annandale Falls with Marilyn, Kim and Joel from “Ootek” and another little girl called Fiona. The falls are quite pretty and some of the locals earn an EC or so by jumping 50ft from the top of the falls. I was thinking of doing the jump until I discovered that the pool was only about 3 metres deep. Everyone had a good time even though we got drenched by rain. The children spent ages collecting red and black seeds called jungle beads to make jewellery.
6 February 1994 Hog Island
Windsurfing and clarinet lessons – I’m up to practising the upper register now, which is excruciating! The boys were on the beach for eight hours today. They spent the morning making jewellery from their jungle beads which they tried to sell at the barbeque. They sold a couple of things and Brett’s split was $1EC (25p) – his first earnings! The Sunday barbeque was well attended and we spent 5½ hours there.
We chatted to Horst and Karen on “Flow” (Austrian). I chatted to a bloke on “Ebb Stream” who caught a virus in Venezuela which has damaged his optic nerves and the centre of his vision is now blurred. He’s trying to find a crew who will help him carry on with his circumnavigation. Roger, one of the locals, showed Brett and the others how to snare a lizard with a piece of grass – brilliant!
7 February 1994 Hog Island
The boys went to the beach – what a surprise! Glenys and I went for a walk by ourselves – luxury. I renewed the seals in the fresh water pump – it only took me 10 days to get around to it. Glenys and I went to a music jam session on Horst’s boat. He has a multifunction Yamaha keyboard and we took our clarinet – I was very nervous of playing with someone else and couldn’t keep up with a fixed rhythm. Glenys, of course, was brilliant.
8 February 1994 Hog Island to Prickly Bay
We motored around to Secret Harbour to get water and fuel. We put 150 gallons of water in and it took ages because the water pressure was so low.
We motored around to Prickly Bay and anchored next to “Amatouana 2” and “Peace and Plenty”. They were just heading off to Trinidad on their way back to Australia. I spent two hours doing clarinet practice which is driving Glenys crazy. I thought that my rendition of “Stranger on the Shore” was pretty good until the boys recorded it and played it back to me.
9 February 1994 Prickly Bay
We started motor sailing around to St Georges. Just as we rounded Saline Point, the engine started to sound funny and a quick check of the gauges showed low oil pressure and very high temperature. I knocked the revs off and pulled the stop handle. Was it my imagination or did the engine stall before I turned it off?
Don’t panic – I left Glenys sailing the boat and I went down below to check the engine. I opened the engine room door and loads of smoke poured out. I slammed the door shut and looked at the fire extinguisher – a dry powder one, which will make a mess - must buy a CO2 one. I opened the door again and looked for flames, there were none, so I cautiously left the door open while telling the boys to go up into the cockpit. Smoke filled the saloon, I opened all the hatches and Glenys looked very worried. It was like a furnace in the engine compartment, but no apparent further danger – only loads of water and oil in the sump.
We had a worried beat back to Prickly Bay. I put up the main with two reefs and we sailed through all the boats. After three attempts and a couple of near misses, we managed to anchor quite nicely. If we have to do this again, we must get rid of the mizzen because it stops the boat bearing away and nearly caused us to hit another boat when we couldn’t tack in the flukey winds.
I let the engine cool down to normal operating temperature, checked the oil – OK, checked the water level – none. I refilled the water system, but couldn’t find a leak. I prayed and cranked the engine – it started first time and ran perfectly for an hour with no apparent leaks. Bob from “Meander” came over and we deduced that it must have been the thermostat jamming shut and caused the engine to overheat. Bob noticed rust stains next to a core plug on the engine block, but as it was dry suggested that I keep an eye on it. I changed the thermostat and cleaned the air intake filter. The engine runs fine - Thank God!
I got the Mercury outboard back. They’ve changed loads of bits and put new oil in the leg, but they still couldn’t get it started because the compression is only 50-80 psi. I need to take the head off and look at the piston rings.
10 February 1994 Prickly Bay
I checked the oil and water this morning to find that all the fresh water had drained out of the dodgy core plug. I roughly measured it and we all went into St Georges. After a bit of hassle I found one at Ace Hardware that may fit. Glenys went and did a major shop at Foodland. I removed the old core plug and found that it had two holes corroded in it – so that was probably the cause of water loss in the first place. The core plug that I bought was 2.218” instead of 2.187” and I couldn’t get it to fit. After an hour of phoning all of the car part stores, I decided that I would have to get “Outfitters Inc” to get me a couple for $40US! I’m going to try to fix the old one with “JB Weld” so that we can go round to Hog Island while we are waiting.
11 February 1994 Prickly Bay
It blew a hooley last night. At midnight, I started to worry about only having one anchor out when we don’t have an engine. I just HAD to get up and sort out another CQR anchor and warp ready to sling it overboard if we started to drag. In the morning, I got out the fisherman which I think would get a better grip than another CQR if we were actually dragging.
I carefully cleaned up the core plug and put it in place with green hermatite. It went in really easily and, as expected, four hours later it leaked when I ran the engine. We had lunch and resigned ourselves to a four day stay in Prickly Bay. In the afternoon, I put the core plug back with silicone sealant in the hope that I can run the engine tomorrow for charging the batteries. The battery charging is going to be our biggest problem until I get the engine fixed.
Glenys continues her campaign against the cockroaches, she is now verging on being clinically paranoid and she will probably need therapy when we eventually move off the boat!
12 February 1994 Prickly Bay
School work and a few odd jobs (and a bit of windsurfing!) in the morning. Glenys went out for a walk by herself in the afternoon. The boys and I played Queen real loud while I made a chilli for dinner. I ran the engine for an hour at which point the core plug started to leak. At least we got one hour charge in the batteries. I feel trapped and it’s driving me mad!
13 February 1994 Prickly Bay
We managed to contact Horst on the VHF who came over to Secret Harbour and ferried us to Hog Island (bless his cotton socks). We lit the fire for the Sunday Barbeque and had a good time. A couple of beers, some red wine, a bit of rum punch and lots of conversation and I feel happy! We met Tolst and Vivi from “Drot” (Danish) and managed to bum a ride back to Prickly Bay with Chris from “Meniscus”.
14 February 1994 Prickly Bay
School work, clarinet and windsurfing. The core plugs are being dispatched from the States today so I will get them tomorrow or the next day. I ran ASAP in the UK and they tell me that the core plug should be 55.9mm which is 0.013” larger than 2.187”, so I hope the new one fits!
I told ASAP to order me a set of core plugs and a thermostat just in case! The anchorage is very rolly tonight, so Glenys and I have been considering trying to go around to Hog Island if the weather is OK tomorrow.
15 February 1994 Prickly Bay
School work, windsurfing and jobs. The core plugs didn’t arrive today, so I put the old one back in with a layer of aluminium foil and silicone sealant to try to keep it in place. “Wise Cat” arrived today and the boys and Glenys spent the afternoon on the beach with Robin, Coby, Nat and Callum.
I checked the domestic batteries. We went to “Wise Cat” for an evening drink. One annoying thing – my middle right hand finger has been sore on the knuckle joint for a few days. It’s finally swollen up and is painful to move – that’s put a stop to windsurfing for a bit (o miser!)
16 February 1994 Prickly Bay
I decided to walk to Grand Anse to get something for my finger and try to get some deionised water for the batteries. A guy called Bob stopped and gave me a lift. It turned out that he had set up a diving operation six months ago. I asked about doing a Dive Master Internship with him and he said yes all things are possible, and that I could do the Rescue Diver straight away ($250 US). He would evaluate me for Dive Master during the Rescue Diver course and we could negotiate a price ($400 US std).
When I got back, I discussed it with Glenys who said she wouldn’t mind staying at Hog Island for a month. This evening I rang Bob up and said that I wanted to do it and I arranged to go there first thing on the 18th. If the engine hadn’t broken, and my finger wasn’t hurt, and he hadn’t stopped to give me a lift … it must be fate!
I tramped all over Grand Anse and St Georges looking for deionised water and was told that I could probably get it from the Coca Cola Factory at $8EC/gallon (bring your own container)! I got back to Spice Island Marina and met Tolst from “Drot” who said I could get some from his water maker – I never thought of that!
I ran the engine in the afternoon. The core plug started to weep immediately but was contained by a strategically placed piece of wood. The engine started to overheat after about 20 minutes. Found that I had to add another three litres of water – could this have been an airlock in the system? The engine ran fine for another 40 minutes. Nat came to play with the boys in the afternoon. Tolst and Vivi came for sunset rum punches.
17 February 1994 Prickly Bay
I went to St Georges to pick up the core plug from Outfitters. I fixed it onto the engine with some gasket seal. It went in a bit too easy and I hope that it holds. Glenys had a major tidy up while I took the boys to the beach to play with the “Wise Cat” kids. The gang from “Wise Cat” came for a drink, ended up staying for three hours and drank all of our rum.
18 February 1994 Prickly Bay
I ran the engine for an hour this morning and it seems to be OK. Glenys went into Grand Anse to do some shopping. On the way back she was offered a lift from an elderly American gentleman. He looked safe enough so she accepted, but she still got her knee patted and had an offer of a drink. It must be her fantastic body!
I arranged to start the Rescue Diver course on the 21st. I ended up getting a lift with Bob to the Rex Grenadian Hotel and then getting a ride in their dive boat back to Secret Harbour.
Gareth and Fi arrived in the afternoon, but I don’t think that we will have much chance to see them since they are dropping off guests and picking up new ones on the same day. We went to “Drot” for drinks and then got legless by opening another bottle of wine.
19 February 1994 Prickly Bay
We are both nursing hangovers – it’s all Glenys’ fault! Lots of wind this morning, so I went windsurfing for an hour. My hand was feeling better, but I’ve probably strained it again. We ran the engine for an hour with no sign of a water leak, so we will go round to Hog Island tomorrow for the Sunday Barbeque.
20 February 1994 Prickly Bay to Hog Island
It took us 1½ hours to get the boat ready to move. We motored around to Hog Island without any mishaps. Gareth was anchored there and we had a short chat to him at the barbeque. I ended up lighting the fire again.
Gareth’s guests left some Sunday papers, which we acquired. We started reading them which I found disturbing because they remind me of a past life. I have managed to ignore the news and politics for about a year and the paper brought the terror of a normal life flooding back.
21 February 1994 Hog Island
I started my PADI Rescue Diver course today. We did theory in the morning and I tagged along while they did a resort course dive this afternoon. I did a bit of snorkelling while Gary watched the boat and Bob did the instruction. I learned a lot about their problems with the Grenadian Government about work permits and 100% import duty! I reckon that it’s cost Bob £75K for a boat and equipment and £25K for living for six months. £100K is a lot of money if you can’t get firm commitments from the bureaucrats.
22 February 1994 Hog Island
Diving theory in the morning. Went around to Secret Harbour to get fuel and water. We tried to do some revision but got disturbed by Bob and Jean from “Meander”, Marilyn from “Ootek” and the Grenadian coast guard selling t-shirts. Thank goodness we’re in a quiet anchorage!
23 February 1994 Hog Island
I had a frustrating day today. I went to Bob’s house expecting to do some diving, but I only did two hours of theory, so I was back on the boat by midday. I was a bit cross about it because I’ve spent three days doing ½ day of theory and it’s dragging on now. I hope that it’s going to be better when I do the Dive Master.
Did some windsurfing, revision, snorkelling on the reef and caught a conch. Glenys cooked chicken roti and conch fritters for dinner.
24 February 1994 Hog Island
Diving theory in the morning and gasp, shock I did a dive in the afternoon. I rescued Gary panicking and then unconscious.
25 February 1994 Hog Island
Diving theory and exam in the morning and practical water work in the afternoon. I completed the Rescue Diver and agreed that I would be charged ½ price ($200US) for a three week Divemaster Internship.
Horst and Karen from “Flow” came for sundowners. I’m quite excited about doing the Divemaster Course – I’ve got to learn all the theory and skills to instruction/demonstration level and I should get 30+ dives under my belt. Mike the new boat driver didn’t turn up this morning because he was stuck in a traffic jam caused by the police. The dive boat left without him and he showed great presence of mind by coming out to the boat in a sunfish dinghy.
26 February 1994 Hog Island
Glenys went into St Georges shopping with Karen. They called in at Nimrod’s shop at Woburn, who insisted that they sign his visitors book and, as custom dictates, have a large rum with him. This was at quarter past nine and got their day off to a good start! I took the boys to the beach and then had a lazy morning.
I went snorkelling with Horst in the afternoon and shot my first lobster – it was just about legal (9” long). Horst got two smaller ones. We had a beach barbeque with Horst and Karen and as night fell, a load more Austrians turned up. One of them played the guitar and we all had a wonderful time. I’m afraid that I drank too much of their wine.
27 February 1994 Hog Island
Mega hangover. I went for a swim to the beach at eight o’clock and then had breakfast. By quarter past nine I was back in bed. I got up just after eleven and went to get wood for the barbeque because we had burnt it all last night. “Wise Cat” turned up. There were a lot of people at the barbeque and loads of screaming kids. By four o’clock, I’d had enough and swam back to the boat. We had lobster salad for dinner.
28 February 1994 Hog Island
I went to Bob’s house for diving theory in the morning.
We moved around to Mount Hartman Bay opposite Bob’s house. I spent the afternoon revising diving theory.